Installation FAQ

Both. You can buy material to pick up or have delivered, or we can handle the full job — we source premium hardwood butcher block, cut and fit it to your space, join corners, cut in your sink, seal it, deliver, and install. Tell us which you're after and we'll quote it. We work throughout the Greenville / Upstate SC area and beyond.

A standard install covers cutting and fitting the slab to your measurements, joining any corners, mounting and securing the top (sealed on the bottom first), and sealing the surface. Removing your old countertop, leveling cabinets, sink/faucet plumbing, and travel are priced separately so you only pay for what your job needs. Your written quote lists each line.

Absolutely — plenty of clients buy material only and install it themselves or use their own contractor. We can cut it to your size, seal it, and deliver it install-ready. If you'd rather we handle the tricky parts, we can also come secure it, cut the sink, and join corners while you do the rest. Just seal bare wood before heavy use so it stays flat.

Yes — most of our installs replace existing laminate or worn tops on cabinets that are already in place. As long as the cabinets are solid and level, we remove the old top (if you'd like), then cut, fit, and install the new wood top. If the cabinets aren't level we can level them for a fee, or we'll let you know what needs to happen first.

It depends on the species, the total size, the number of pieces and corners, your sink and edge work, finishing, and how far we travel — so we give you an exact written quote rather than a flat rate. Many fixed add-ons are fixed: a drop-in sink cutout runs around $160, a continuous miter corner around $200, and travel from about $150 within 25 miles. Send your details and we'll price it precisely.

Seven things get us an accurate quote: your location, the dimensions (length × depth of each run), your preferred species and thickness, the finish you want, your sink type (drop-in, undermount, or farmhouse), how many corners need joining, and your timeline. A photo of the space — especially any open or corner side — helps us get it right the first time.

Yes. Cutting and fitting each piece to your exact dimensions carries a modest labor fee on top of the material, since every top is cut from a full slab and trimmed to your space. It's a small per-piece line, and we fold it into your written quote so there are no surprises.

Yes, we can remove and dispose of your existing countertop and then fit the new wood top. Removal isn't part of the base install price — it's a separate line — so mention it when you reach out and we'll include it. The same goes for leveling cabinets and any plumbing disconnect/reconnect.

We can work either way. Many clients send their own measurements, a quick layout sketch, and photos and we quote from that. For installs we can also come out to measure and confirm the fit before we cut. Precise numbers — length, depth, and where the open sides and corners are — are what we need most.

If your size and species are in stock, a pickup or simple job can happen within days. For a full custom install our lead time typically runs about two to three weeks depending on the schedule, since we keep quality high and run a tight shop. Tell us your target date and we'll tell you what's realistic — a deposit locks in your spot on the calendar.

Yes — a wood top sits and seats best on level, properly installed cabinets, so that's the main prep. If your cabinets are out of level we can shim and level them for a fee as part of the job. If something underneath isn't built right, we'll flag it before we install rather than put a beautiful top on a base that will fight it.

We seal the underside first, then mount and secure the top to the cabinets — typically with brackets or fasteners from below, and construction adhesive where it's the right call. For islands, peninsulas, or a top on legs or pillars we add brackets or build out support so nothing flexes. The goal is a top that's solid, flat, and won't move.

Yes, we can scribe the back edge to your wall so the top fits clean against it with no gap. Scribing eats into depth, so for that we carry deeper 30" slabs in addition to standard ~25.5" depth. If your wall is wavy or out of square, tell us and we'll plan the scribe into the cut.

Two ways. A butt joint is the simpler, more economical corner (around $150); a 45° miter gives a cleaner continuous-grain seam (around $200). One thing to plan for: a mitered corner adds the countertop's depth to each leg, so the slab has to be sized for it. We'll recommend the best option for your layout when we quote.

We keep seams as discreet as possible. Wherever a single continuous slab will reach, we use one piece rather than gluing sections together. Where a seam is unavoidable — a long run or an L — a tight 45° miter reads much cleaner than a butt joint. We'll show you where any seam will fall before we cut.

A standard top gives you a little overhang already — our countertop-depth slabs run about 25.5" so they clear cabinet doors and drawers. For seating, an overhang past roughly 8" needs support — hidden steel brackets or corbels — which we build in. A waterfall end is another option: more material, but it supports itself. Tell us your island size and seating plan and we'll spec it.

Yes. A drop-in sink is the simplest and most economical cutout (around $160). An undermount takes more routing and sanding (around $300). A farmhouse/apron sink is the most involved (around $360) and needs a cabinet that can carry the apron — we can build out support or modify the cabinet if needed. Send your sink's specs or a link and we'll center the cutout exactly.

We mount and secure the sink and seal the gap, and we can handle the faucet, plumbing, and dishwasher hookup or a garbage disposal as add-ons — or leave those to your plumber, whichever you prefer. For a farmhouse sink it's best to have the sink on hand when we install so the fit is exact. Tell us how far you want us to take it.

Yes, we can cut and finish an opening for a drop-in cooktop and seal the exposed edges so the wood is protected from heat and steam. Send the cutout dimensions from your appliance spec sheet. As with sinks, keep trivets and pads in mind once it's in — sealed wood handles everyday kitchen use but isn't a heat-proof surface.

Yes — we offer a matching wood backsplash (commonly around 4" tall) milled from the same species so it ties into your top. It's a small add to the install. If you'd rather skip it or go shorter, that's fine too; just tell us the look you want and we'll price it in.

Both, by design. We always seal the underside and edges before the top goes down so moisture can't get into the wood from below. The visible surfaces are finished as part of the job — we can pre-finish in the shop or seal on site after fitting. If you bought raw material to install yourself, seal it before heavy use to keep it flat.

We use a water-based, food-safe polyurethane. Our process is to sand, apply a penetrating first coat all around, lightly sand again, then build a durable top coat on the surfaces that get used — typically two coats. It cures to a hard, easy-to-wipe finish. We can do a standard or a more durable seal; sealing is priced by the square foot and listed on your quote.

Yes. You can keep it natural or have it stained before sealing — espresso and other rich tones are popular. We can stain a sample so you confirm the color before we finish the full top; send a photo of the look you're going for and we'll match it as closely as the wood allows, then seal over it.

Our most popular options are acacia, birch, and hevea (rubberwood). Acacia is the best value and a great everyday counter; birch is the premium pick — lighter, more uniform, and the most durable, which we like for long runs and deeper tops; hevea is light and very uniform. We can also source maple, walnut, and oak. Tell us your project and we'll recommend the right fit.

Standard countertop depth is about 25.5" so the top overhangs your cabinet doors and drawers, and we carry 30" for deeper runs or scribing. The two standard thicknesses are 1" and 1.5"; 1" is readily stocked and 1.5" is common for countertops. Slabs come up to about 4 ft wide and in 8, 10, and 12 ft lengths — anything larger or an exact size is cut from a slab.

Yes — we take a 50% deposit to get on the schedule, especially when we're cutting a slab to your size, because a cut can't be undone. The deposit reserves your material and your install date; the balance is due on completion. We take the deposit by Venmo or Zelle (card is available with a 3% fee).

Yes, our work carries a 90-day warranty. If something isn't right within that window, reach out and we'll make it right. Beyond that, sealed solid-hardwood tops last for years with basic care — keep the finish maintained, wipe up standing water, and use a cutting board rather than cutting on the counter.

We're based in Simpsonville, SC (Greenville / Upstate) and regularly install across the Upstate — Greenville, Greer, Mauldin, Anderson, and out into South Carolina, North Carolina, and Georgia. Travel is added by distance, starting around $150 within 25 miles. For bigger jobs we'll travel farther; tell us where you are and we'll give you the exact figure. Call or text (864) 790-3777 to get started.